Making a Set of 1780s Undergarments: Shift, Stays, Bumpad and Petticoat 

I am finally back to sewing and I even have progress to show, hurray. The last few weeks I invested my time in finishing a set of 1780s undergarments consisting of a shift, a pair of stays, a bumpad and a petticoat. I really like how the set turned out, the pieces look nice together. Shift, bumpad and petticoat are made from a white lightweight cotton and decorated with a white lace trim. To match the trim to my stays, that are made from a beautiful rose and mint jacquard and light blue satin bias binding, I also used a light blue ribbon. 

Now, on to the different pieces starting with:

The Shift

 
A different approach for this post, I thought, I could for once start with pictures of the finished garments (also starring my coffee plant…). Ironing might have been a good idea. Well, lets start with the pattern for the shift. It has a square neckline, 3/4 sleeves and an a-shaped ,skirt’.

 
The pattern for the shift was, like almost every other pattern I make, drafted from my dressform. Unfortunately I did not realise how short this would be on me until I tried it on. So it is quite a mini shift instead of a kneelong garment… Since I did not want to waste the material and time, I went on with it.

It is a two piece pattern and I cut both pieces on the fold. After that, they were sewn together with french seams. The fabric I chose was great for the petticoat and the ruffles, but a bit too stiff for the shift. I ended up adding darts to it, because I absolutely did not like how the fabric draped. It was also a bit too loose on me, the darts solved the problem. 

The raw edges were bound with white bias binding. Over it I used a lace trim and added a blue ribbon to decorate it even more. 

After that, I only had to make the sleeves to finish the shift. For sleeves I usually copy an older pattern that I know works, then make a mockup and adjust that pattern to what I need for the garment I’m making. 

 
The sleeves were also sewn together with french seams, than attached to the shift. I bound the raw edges and added the lace trim and the blue ribbon. And that is it for my shift. 

Now on to the next garment we would put on: the stays.

The Stays

 
They were a bit more complicated… I struggled quite a bit with the construction and they were really time consuming but they are done now and I love how they look. They also give me a nice shilouette and fit perfectly. 

The pattern was drafted flat, not on my dressform. I used her once I had the pieces cut out and sewn together a first time. 

I took inspiration from one of the patterns in Mandy Barringtond book ,Stays and Corsets’. I did not really follow her instructions, maybe I should have. But her illustrations were great for drafting my own pattern. 

 
I made a few alterations after my first try. Less tabs, a wider and more squareshaped neckline, shorter straps in the front etc. On the picture you can see my first pattern (it was not good at all)…

 
After all the adjustments, I cut the pattern (it has two pieces, the front piece was cut on the fold). I absolutely adore the fabric I used for the top layer. Since I had the feeling, that the neckline might still not be wide enough, I added another 2 centimeters while cutting out the pieces. 

I sewed the pieces together and ironed all seams. Next where the boning channels. I directly marked them on the base layer, so the inside of my stays looks rather messy. 

 
I used a red coloured pencil to draw out the lines I had to stitch and then started sewing all the boning channels. It took quite some time and I had to pay attention since I had to leave some seams for later. By sewing them, I would have closed the channels above.

 
Then I started to add boning. I used three different kinds of boning. A bendable but stirdy plastic version (for the horizontal bones and the side ones that have to bend at the waist), light plastic boning for the tabs and hoopskirt wire for the rest. It is not uncomfortable at all, it’s much better to wear than my other corsets, I love it. 

After I inserted all the boning possible, I finished the remaining channels and inserted boning there too. 

 
Then I had to bind all raw edges which was even more time consuming than sewing all these boning channels. But I did it, watching a ton of movies next to it. I finally watched ,Logan’, I missed it in cinema. 

 
I also handsewed all the eyelits. Before binding the top of my stays I added the straps. These have no base layer, which I regret looking back. They are flimsy. After binding the top edges I worked a bit on the inside of my stays. Just for security I added a thick and stirdy ribbon where the bones meet my hips. I taped them but I don’t trust myself… I used the same ribbon to finish the raw edges where I sewed the straps to my stays.

And that was all. I had to cut the lightblue ribbon to the right length for the lacing and to hold the straps in place and then the stays where finished. 

 
The Bumpad

 
About this, I really don’t have much to say. It is not as poofy as others, but that is intentional, the gown I want to make does not look that poofy on the reference pictures. I may make a second bumpad for other dresses from the period. 

 
I really only cut out two ,crescent moons’, sewed them together on one side, parted it into three compartments, filled those with scraps, added ribbon and then used bias binding to finish the raw edges. And that is it. Oh wait, thats a lie. I also added ruffles to it on the outer side. Just a gathered stripe of fabric that was cut on the selvage. I sewed it in when I sewed the top and bottom layer together.

The last thing I wanted to make was a pettycoat. The skirt beneath the redingote will not have ruffles or anything to give it some shape. 

The Petticoat

And here it is.

The coffee plant is called Hadufuns by the way. And the carnivore next to him has the very creative name Sarcenia. They are happy to meet you! Aren’t they pretty? I have no bond to plants but I am fighting for the live of these two since two years now. They made it so far…

 
For the petticoat I used an about 2 1/2 meters long piece of fabric, that I draped on my dressform and then cut to approximately the right length. After that I finished the backseam and cut a slit on each side (the backseam stays in the back). The fabric was gathered and I did the seams for the slits. With the rest of the white and light blue bias binding I bound the gathered edges and created the straps to close the garment. Then I did the hem and added horse hair braid to stiffen it. The only thing left to do was decorating it to match the other garments and to hide the stitchline. Well, one of them at least. 

  
The lace trim was about 20 cm too short… Wich is not cool, Now I have a gap in the back. I can live with it, it is beneath the rest but 20 cm suck… why not half a meter? At least I could blame myself correctly for that.

I like it nontheless and it is comfortable to wear.

The whole fun finished

And that is it! Here you can see pictures of me wearing these four garments. I had to ask my boyfriend for help since I could not lace my stays up properly myself. He had fun I guess :P. 

I hope you enjoyed and I wish you a nice time :). Thank you for reading. 



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What’s Next? Some Sewing Plans.

New post and soon a new month with hopefully plenty of time for sewing. I did some alterations and fixed some of the garments I own for the last two weeks, so I don’t have progress to share. For the next two months I already have some plans and these are what I’d like to discuss in this post. 

The first thing I’d like to show you are pictures of me wearing the summer maxidress I made about two weeks ago. I’ve been wearing it out and I am in love with it. 

It was a really hot day and I was afraid, that I would be boiling in all the fabric but it was actually quite ok. 

I also (again) did some shopping… I’ll set myself a fabric buying ban for the rest of the year… I have enough for at least four more projects and I’ll never be able to complte these within 2017. Feel free to call me out should I again buy fabric. Trims and stuff like that are not included in my ban since I tend to buy these as soon as I start a project specifically for it. 

The next project that is inspired by historical garments is already planned. I stumbeled across an absolutely stunning Redingote and immediately felt the need to make a similar garment. The dress is dated 1786-1789 and from an anonymous artist from the Netherlands. You can find more details on the page of Rijks Museum. A Redingote is a usually double breasted coat with a wide collar inspired by menswear. I came up with air as the theme for it. I’d like to make it my own and nothing makes me feel more alive than watching natures unleashed power. I enjoy sitting on my balcony while a storm is raging and raindrops are flying like bullets, while clouds are racing and waves grow bigger and bigger. 

This is my first attempt on the air design, featuring the Montgolfier brothers balloon, that has risen in 1783 (I thought this would be a nice detail since the dress is from the 1780s too). I would also like to incorporate waves, ships and a windlike line design. I’m no pro in embroidery and a little bit afraid of all of these embroidered designs. But the best way to get good at something is to do it a lot, right? 

Below you can see the fabric I bought for this project. The original dress is made from olive green and pale pink silk. For air I decided to go with champaign and a light blue. Since silk would pass my budget, I went with satin. This was about 4.50 $ per meter. I bought 5 meters of the blue satin and seven of the champaign one since the coat will be lined with the champaign satin. The skirt beneath will also mostly be done with the champaign satin. I hope it is enough. If not, I can still cheat and use something else for the back of the skirt, since it will not be visible.

For this project I also already bought beads and embroidery floss (it’s going to be a little bit sparkly). I will finish my set of 18th century undergarments before starting with this and also do some embroidery samples but it is definitely the next project I want to do. 

That is all on this project I have for now. 

I would also like to attempt measuring someone other than me and that is what I’m goint to use the following fabric for:

The dress is for my sister and I hope it’ll work out. She’ll be measured today and we will decide for a design and then I’ll try a to make a mock up. 

I bought more fabric…  This one is for my Robe à l’Anglaise because I abused the creme coloured fabric with the rose print, I planned to use for it, to make my maxidress. So, some stripes since stripes were quite fashionable in the 18th century.

The last thing I plan on doing is finishing this circle skirt that I started half a year ago. 

Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you enjoyed. 

Making a Maxidress with a Pleated Bodice 

Welcome to a new post on my blog. I own a new sewing machine and it is so good. I should have invested in a better one since quite some time… Loking back I’m somehow glad, my old machine did not survive. 

The first ,bigger thing’ I made on my new machine is a maxidress with a pleated bodice. The bodice is copied from one of my favourite dresses in my wardrobe that is sadly starting to fall apart. After years…

This is it… I will bury it playing Mozart’s ,Requiem’ should it really fall apart. I adore this dress. There is a second one, also by Orsay, that I will copy too in the future. It has a really gorgously cut pencil skirt. At the moment, fashion seems so boring to me ^^’. I like clever cuts and colours. 

I started by drafting the pattern with the help of the original dress. 

That is what I ended up with. This is the pattern for the lining. The lining was made from a lightweight cotton fabric. The backpanels and straps where the same for the chiffon layer but I cut the waistband on the fold to allow me pleating it and I draped the frontpart in two pieces. I made slight changes for the waistband since I did not want it as loose as it is on the original dress.

I cut out all pieces of the lining, sewed them together and tried the bodice on. I only hat to change one seam a bit. After that I first finishet the waistband. I made the pleats and then sewed toplayer and lining onto each other. Looking back, that was a bad idea. I will change this next time because it left me with raw edges where I joined waistband and bodice and waistband and skirt.

Then I started draping the pleated parts and cut out the backpieces and the straps from chiffon.

After that, I sewed the chiffon parts together and sewed the lining in (after ironing the seams open). Then the bodice was complete, apart from the fact, that I had to bind the raw edges which was not all that funny… 

Here you can see the front and back of the bodice. 

The skirt was the easiest part. I decided to do a gathered skirt with a 3 meter wide hem. I had to line it, as the chiffon is seethrough. For the lining I went with a width of 2 meters and a lengh of 0.8 meters. I love full skirts! 

I gathered the two layers and handsewed them together. Then I attached the skirt to the waistband by machine. I trimmed the seam a bit and then again covered the raw edges with bias binding. I hemmed the dress and did the back seam (using a french seam because I did use enough bias binding for my taste…). After that, the dress was finished apart from my alltime favourite task: add the zipper. It looks better than expected but is far from perfect. I really am not able to sew a zipper in nicely… But the dress fits perfectly and I adore the full and floor long skirt. I can ignore the sloppy upper part of the back :P.

Here are some pictures. Excuse the light, it’s pouring outside. But I wont complain, I really am no summer girl. I prefer cooler temperatures. It is so refreshing. I hope the next week will be nice and rainy.


Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you enjoyed the post 🙂 A little comparison: 

Making Foundation Garments (1780s, 1890s), Part 1 and Some Other Updates due to Bad Luck

This post was meant to be a little different. I lacked motivation the last weeks, but also time. When I finally found the time and energy to sew, my sewing machine decided to leva me far to early. I’ll have to try and get it repaired or to get a new one. So for now I don’t have that much to update you sewing wise. I started my chemise, patterned my stays, tried my best with some embroidery (that I accidently might forget to insert here… it is not that good), bought some fabric and more. I hope you still enjoy, eventhough just half is about actual sewing. I wish you a lot of fun while reading and hope you’ll bear with me. Now to the actual start that is not that actual anymore:

In this and the following posts I will discuss making two sets of foundation garments, one for the 1780s and one for the 1890s. Since I have planned two projects for each decade, I thought it might be best to sew these two sets before starting on the actual dresses. Well, at least, that was the plan.

I started with an 1890s chemise using a white lightweight cotton fabric, some lightblue lace and lightblue chiffon. Patterning was both, easy and challenging. I am still not sure if I like it or not. It works for its purpose, but it is not the nicest so far.

I cut out the back and front piece and sewed them together with french seams to hide the raw edges. Than I started making the ruffels. I cut a 12 cm wide stripe from chiffon, that is twice as long as the hem. I sewed two sides together, turned the whole thing over to the right side (which was a pain in the neck) and started gathering it.

Off topic (at this time, my machine was still working. So you can blame me for the interruption with unnecessary details): In the last two weeks I switched my bedroom and my office. My sewing- and bedroom now is in the smaller room, but like this I can get the most out of the space I have.  I’m really happy with the decision. I still sew outside on my dining table whenever I need my machine, but for hand sewing, patterning etc. I have a nicer place now.  Here is what my sewing room (or sewing edge) looks like:

And I finally bought a mini tripod for my iPhone. The era of shaky selfies is over now 👻. I really began to enjoy photography and I want to improve (and I have a lot to learn…). The tripod  is a small step, I know, but I’m not going to miss my arm situations or taping my iphone to my shelfs. I’d love to invest in a camera but for now my iPhone has to do the job. Studies first, expensive equipment second 🤗 (05.06.2017: A little Update here -It is already broken… Maybe expensive isn’t that bad at alk… Bad luck strikes :P)

One last thing before going back to sewing. I bought this beautiful mint and dustyrose jaquard from my local store… The quality is outstanding but even half the price, it was still 38 swiss francs per meter. I’d really love to have enough of it to combine it with either mint or dustyrose fabric for something from the 18th century. But well, as it was so expensive I bought half a meter and I hope that it will be enough for making stays and an 1890s corset.

Back to sewing or rather patterning my stays since I really want to work with this fabric. I’ll go on with the chemise later I’m not really happy with it’s skirt. Since I love the fabric that much, I’ll for sure make a mockup for the stays first. The book I used as a reference is from Mandy Barrington (,Stays & Corsets’). I did not follow her instructions but just its illustrations are quite helpful already. I also used Nora Waugh’s ,Corsets and Crinolines’.

I cut my pattern out from some leftover fabric and the pattern works quite well, only a few alterations before I start to sew the mockup which will for sure have to be altered a bit as well. But well, before being able to finish it, my machine said goodbye. 

I went back to my chemise:

Off topic: I have to figure out the lighting situation in my new room :). #nopro

Since I had no machine, I started to fix the issues with my chemise. I added four darts, two in the front and two in the back. 

I also finally took some pictures of me wearing my fantasy inspired costume. #noproatall #nomodel

I like shooting with the window behind 😅… But the editing is difficult… I still love, how the photos turned out. 

I never smile… Just noticed… Next time I’ll ask my boyfriend again, he gave good instructions.

The last things left I can write about now are the new fabrics that I bought and my plans for it. 

The first fabric I purchased is a warm grey whipcord. I like the stiffness of it and I will make an automn coat (if I cannot use it  together with my second purchase. If I can it will be turned into an 1890s street costume. Still on the fence). Maybe it will be enough for both, I just want some accents for my street costume… I purchased 3 meters. 

Here is a close up of it. I adore the texture, it will give the garments some character.

This is the second fabric and it is also nice and stiff and drapes beautifully. I decided to buy striped fabric because I’d love to work with different angles and create a unique pattern with it. 

A close up from this cotton that I bought 6 meters of to close the post.

I unfortunately have to wait for my machine to either be repaired or to get a new one :). I know, this post was all over the place, I’m really sorry. But I would like to get back into schedule, so I thought, I’d post it anyway. Thanks a lot for reading and have a good time.

Making a Renaissance Inspired Costume Final Part 

Hello everyone 🤗 I’ve finally finished my renaissance inspired costume. I’ll share making the sleeves, the last adjustments and accessories as well as pictures some pictures of me wearing everything 😊

For the sleeves I used the same pattern I made for my Belle inspired shirt. I made the sleeves a bit longer and had to adjust the upper part a bit, after I made a mock up. 

 

The base of the sleeves was cut out from golden velvet. Then I used organza, green velvet and the trim already used on the coat to cover it. 

 

For the cuffs, I cut out two rectangles of each organza and green velvet. I put the organza beneath for stability. Both sides were gathered and then I sewed the two sides onto the golden velvet. The second seem was placed a centimeter lover than it naturally would have been to make it look a bit more puffy. 

Then I added the first stripe of my trim and sewed it on. The second was sewn on, after I repeated the process of making a green velvet cuff and sewed that one on. Then I cut out the organza. I placed it over the golden velvet and traced the shape and made it a bit bigger for poof.

I gathered both sides and sewed the organza onto the golden velvet.

After this step, I sewed the sleeves together, wrong sides facing each other. I didnt line the sleeves but I will add bias tape where I sewed it into the armopenings, it’s kind of scratchy. Turning them over was a bit of a challange… Then I attached the sleeves to the dress. After this, with the exception of some smaller corrections and some more beads, the costume was finished. Some details below:

And that is it 🤗 Below you can find some pictures my boyfriend made 🙂 I hope you enjoyed, thanks a lot for reading! 

Making a Renaissance Inspired Costume Part 4

Hello everyone and welcome to this (unfortunately not last) post on my renaissance inspired costume. I didn’t realise how much work was still left. I decided to split it, as I did not have much time to work on it either. So this is about finishing the coat and the dress (apart from the sleeves) and making some matching jewellery. The next and (really) last post will deal with making the sleeves, show the entire ensemble and some more beading :). Here you can find Part 1, Part 2 and Part 3 🤗

I startet with hemming the shorter sides of the two grey velvet panels that will create a sort of “sleeves”. The fabric always curled and it was really difficult. So I decided to iron it but chose a too high heat level and therefore destroyed a part of the fabric. I then decided to only hem the shorter sides and drape the fabric nicely. A good decision for my patience… It was wearing thin 😂🙈

I pinned the two panels in place and draped them the way I wanted. I really love the way it looks from the back. It balances everything.

The next step was securing everything in place. I sewed the panels directly on my dressform onto the coat bodice. It was a bit tricky but I was afraid that I could not achieve the same look without the dressform. After that I secured the panels on the skirt as well and also used a few stitches to hide the raw edges. 

I took a break from handsewing and went on with making the accessories (necklace and a tassel for the hood). I first shed my beads and sequins all over my bed and had to sort them out for far too long. I didn’t want to throw them away, these are beads that I can use for almost every fabric. 

After that I made my necklace and the tassel. I bought a beautiful rose in a local shop and incorporated it in the design. The tassel repeats the golden bouillon wire used on the dress as well as the golden beads and the white pearls from the necklace. 

Then I started beading the coat. I used the same beads and pearls that I used for the necklace and also some leftover sequins, that I used on the dress. I went with a random pattern and just spread the design over the shoulders. I really like the outcome. 

After trying it on, I did all the remaining seams (arm openings, hood) and added hooks and eyes as well as a clasp to close it. I bought it on etsy. It seems to be inspired by vikings and germanic elements… Not the most suitable clasp but I loved the design so much that I really don’t care. I think, I never talked about my inspiration for this ensemble… It’s inspired by italian renaissance fashion from the 1480ies and 90ies. I saw a movie costume that I’ll link in my next post (I can’t find it at the moment) and went on from there, getting inspiration from paintings etc. 🙂 It isn’t historically accurate, only inspired by all elements I liked. 

Not the best picture but this is, what it is probably going to look like. There are a few things I’d do different for a next time. I’m not that happy with the collar for example, one side of it looks really odd, I hope, I can correct it a bit. But I’m still in love with colour and design :).
Then I went on with the dress. I did the backseam and added hooks and eyes to close it. 

And that unfortunately is all the progress I can share with you. Not much but I’m so happy that I could finally finish one part of the ensemble. Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you enjoyed 🤗

Making a Renaissance Inspired Dress Part 3

Hey everyone 🙂 Already the third post on this ensemble. It makes me happy to blog about my progress. It is a nice documentation of my learning process and helps me a lot. In this post I’ll work a bit on everything. I got further with the coat but also did some work on the dress.

I finally decided to work on the hem of the dress. The fabrics were fraying like crazy and I wanted to do the hems before I destroy something. To keep the length, I decided to make bias tape out of golden velvet and bind the raw edges just as I did with the neckline. I think of using the same method to bind the raw edges of the sleeves too to repeat the element. 

I cut out two stripes of golden velvet and sewed them together. While pinning it to the hem I noticed, that the seam of the bias tape would be visible in the front. So I decided to cut the stripe in two pieces. I placed the new hem where the black tafeta is sewn to the organza and satin. I now have two seams, but both will be hidden by the coat, so it does not bother me too much.

I pinned the stripes on and sewed them down with a running stitch, which took quite long. I learned to love watching series while hand sewing… At the moment I’m watching the third season of ,Sleepy Hollow’. A friend gave it to me and it’s quite good. But back to sewing :).


Then I pinned the rest of the velvet to the other side and used a herringbone stitch to secure it. My stitches in the front turned out to be uneven. Not happy with that. I have to work on this. As most of the mistakes will be hidden it is ok, but I want to put more effort in it in the future. After that I decided to move on with the coat. I cut out three panels from the green and grey velvet for the coat and sewed the three pieces together, the grey one in the middle.


I went on by pleating the skirt of the coat and secured the pleats to my dressform. 


They are not 100% even but I really like how they look. As I didn’t want to destroy my pleats, I sewed them together on my dressform and then took skirt and bodice off and sewed them together by hand. Afterwards I cut out the lining and sewed on the trim that I also want to use on the sleeves.
I put the coat back on my dressform and shortened the length until I liked it. It has a nice train of about 30 cm now. The fit is good, even without the stay /corset thing I created (more or less made up) to get the right shilouette underneath. I love the colour and the way the fabric falls.


I started cutting out the lining only to notice, that it does not match the bodice of the coat. It’s too short! I cut the bodice on the bias and probably it got longer due to tension. So I have to do this again. But I have put it aside for the moment to start with the hood. 


The hood was sewn together by machine and I used four layers of velvet for it. I wanted the lining, that would be visible also to be made out of velvet. After sewing all pieces together, I sewed it on by hand. I made several small mistakes but they should all be fixable. The only thing that worries me a bit are the folds that sewing hood and bodice together created… I hope they will vanish once I wear it as my shoulders are wider than my dressforms. Or they might also vanish as soon as I add the grey velvet as some sort of sleeve that will create some tension. 

It doesn’t look as bad as I thought first. I especially like the way it looks from the back.


Here you can see the back and the folds I just spoke about. Other than that I really like how the hood looks. It is not functional but helps the shilouette a lot. 

The next post will probably be the last one on the construction of this project. All I have left to do is constructing the sleeves. The rest is sewing in the lining, hooks and eyes, do all the remaining hems etc. I want to make a tassel for the hood using beeds and also a necklace. But other than that it is pretty much finished.  i know, hese are the most time consuming tasks… But I can see the end and really look forward to wear this dress outside and take fotos of it :). Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you enjoyed.

Sewing Plans for 2017 (Historical Projects)

Hello everyone 😊 In this post I’d like to share my future sewing projects, sketches and the fabrics I’m going to use. I have fabrics and designs for five projects. The sixth is an idea, that I really want to go for, but don’t have fabrics yet.  I will not be able to accomplish them all in 2017, as my schedule with 100% work and another 40% for my studies is quite tight. But I’ll try my best as I am excited for all of these projects. I’ll list them chronologically, but I don’t know, what I’ll start with next. Probably the Robe à l’Anglaise. 

I will have to make everything (undergarments etc.) for most of these dresses, as I have nothing from those periods so far.

Medieval Dress (Bliaut)

The first dress I have planned will be a medieval dress.


The design is inspired by Bliauts. Dresses in this style were worn in the 12th century. I will use 3 meters of navy velvet and 2 meters of a vanilla coloured brocade for the dress. In addition, I’ll use beads and some trim.



Robe à la Française

The next project I have in mind is a Robe à la Française. The design is based of a pattern, I found in Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 1 on p. 22.


I am in love with the design in the front. Next to the dress itself I’ll have to make stays a chemise, a Grand Pannier and maybe a pettycoat. The fabrics I’m going to use for the dress are 6 meters of a beige javanaise with a rose print and another 6 meters of a white cotton for undergarments and the skirt beneath the toplayer. I am also going to use some white trim and probably some sequins and beads.



Robe à l’Anglaise

Then I’d love to make a Robe á l’Anglaise too. 


The design is based of the dresses in the movie “The Duchess”, mainly by this one. It will have a similar colour scheme as I use for the Robe à la Française, but with a more vibrant print. I have 3 meters of a Crêpe with a colourful floral design and 6 meters of beige cotton. I will also use some navy organza for details that goes nice with the pattern on the flower fabric. Next to the dress I will make a Bumppad.

Dress 1890

I would love to dive into the 1890ies as well. I planned a dress, inspired by Janet Arnolds Patterns of Fashion 2 p. 14 (skirt) and 42 (bodice).


I will make the dress out of a crashed jade coloured taffeta. I have 6 meters of it and hope, it will be enough. The chemisette will be made of a transparent striped silk. Together with it of course a 1890ies corset and a pettycoat and a set of bloomers and chemise. Maybe I’ll use some purple trim to add some more colour. The colour of the taffeta does not show up on the foto as it should… It is much lighter in person. 



Jacket and Skirt Ensemble 1890

Then I’d love to make a Walking Ensemble too. The design is heavily inspired by this absolutely gorgous gown. This dress is an Afternoon Gown but with the right alterations it can easily be transformed into a jacket and skirt to take strolls in the park.


I bought 6 meters of green flannel for it, as well as some blue velvet. The chemisette will be the same as the one for the jade grees taffeta dress.

Dressing Gown Inspired by Japanese Fashion 1885 (Japonisme)

The last project I want to mention is a dressing gown inspired by japanese fashion. It is made of  Kimono fabric and from 1885. I don’t have fabrics for this yet, but I plan to pick something up on my trip to japan, probably next year.

I also want to make a Hanfu one day… Not this, but maybe next year. And something inspired by eastern fashion. So many gorgous designs and ideas to look into… I hope I’ll have plenty of time the next years to look into all of my fashion ideas. 

I have other projects in mind, I talked about them in my last fabric haul. So there are plenty of ideas and I will not be bored this year for sure :). But before I start with one of these, I’ll finish my Renaissance inspired costume. Part three should be up next week (here you can find Part 1 and Part 2 if you are interested). 

Thanks a lot for reading this monster-post. I hope you enjoyed it and I wish you a sunny and warm weekend 🤗

 Fabric and Trim Haul (and some Plans for all the Good Stuff)

Hello everyone 🙂

I went a little crazy and bought a lot of fabrics and other stuff in the last months. Well, at least for me it is a huge amount… I bought most of it to sew skirts or shirts, not historical projects, because I am tired of walking into stores and find nothing that suits the style I want or the fit I need. So I decided to buy some fabric and sew garments myself. There are also a few fabrics for historical projects though. 

The first fabric I got is black elastic jersey. I bought one and a half meters of it and this is going to be a shirt with bell shaped sleeves.

The next fabric I bought is black too and it is Javanaise. Almost opaque and perfect for a blouse.

I also bought some cotton. I adore the colour, it’s gorgous! This is going to be a dress in the style of the sixties. I saw a really beautiful dress that unfortunately was too big on me and I want to recreate a similar one with this fabric. I have 2 and a half meters of it.

This navy velour (yes, the photo does not capture the colour…) is part of a skirt I planned on making. I’ll use it for the waistband and to create biastape. I bought half a meter of it. The fabric I’ll pair it with, follows.

This is the fabric I was just talking about. I adore the print, it’s absolutely stunning. I bought 1.5 meters of it and it will be a circle skirt (already working on it).

The next fabric (cotton) was meant to be a pleated skirt but I unfortunately only got half a meter instead of the whole one I ordered. So I have to see, what I’m going to do with that one. But I love the colours, I’m sure I can pair this with lots of other fabrics.

The next three fabrics will be turned into hostorical projects. The first one I initially bought to make a maxidress but it is too thick for my taste (especially for a summer dress). So it is probably going to be a Robe à l’anglaise along with some white cotton. I really adore the pattern. So beautiful. I bought 3 meters of this crêpe.

Of this gorgous green and brown toned flanell I bought 6 meters. It is so soft and I absolutely don’t regret splurging a bit on it. It’s the most expensive among the fabrics I bought. This is going to be an 1890s robe. Still working on the design… I want to pair it with navy velvet.

The last fabric I bought is this vanilla and silver brocade. It’s shiny and beautiful and I can’t wait to work with it. I want to pair it with forest green, wine red or navy velvet and sew something medieval. Have to think about this one again though. I bought 3 meters of it.

The trimms and laces I bought are shown on this last picture. They were all bought in sale and I don’t have much of each. But I’m sure, I can use them on undergarments or thinks like that.

So these are my plans and the fabrics and other things I bought. I’ll try to blog on a schedule from now on and upload a post every friday 🙂 I hope you liked this post and thanks a lot for reading 🤗

Making a Renaissance Inspired Dress Part 2

Hello everyone 🙂 Todays post will be about the skirt that I made for the bodice (previous post) and on the construction of the bodice and skirt of the coat that goes with the dress. I initially wanted to proceed with the sleeves but I’m somehow afraid of them and procrastinated… 

Well, let’s start with the skirt. As said in my previous post I did not have enough black tafeta and had to use satin in addition. This also was the case for the skirt. I used almost all of the black tafeta and satin on the skirt to get the fullness I wanted. The tafeta was used for the two back panels and the satin was paired with the rest of the green golden organza, that I’m also almost out of… Making the sleeves will therefore be even more fun, as I am limited fabricwise… But anyway, I’m really happy with the skirt! 


I also did decide to make a waistband. Out of black tafeta and satin, I used some of the black velvet I had left underneath the organza. This dress will be made out of a ton of different black fabrics… After cutting out the pieces for the waistband, I sewed together the three panels of the skirt (tafeta shifts…) and used a zig zag stitch to prevent the seams from fraying. Then I gathered the skirt.

I did this by hand and the middle part was quite difficult. After gathering the skirt, I attached the waistband to the bodice and then the skirt to the waistband. I also did this by hand and because there was so much fabric it turned out to be uneven which bothers me. I’m not happy with the quality of work on this. It will not be visible because of the coat but I am still not very happy. 


I played with trimms to cover my sloppy work, but in the end decided against using it. It would add unwanted bulk to the waistline. So I went on and tried to make a pattern for the sleeves, which was a complete fail. So I procrastinated and draped the bodice of the coat instead.


I sewed a mockup because I was not too sure about the fit. I liked the pattern and only had to alter the front darts and one part of the hood. So I cut out all pieces of the bodice and sewed them together.


I put the dress on my dressform, then the coat bodice and started draping the lower part of the coat. I will go on with this combination of forest green and grey velvet and the pleats I draped. I really like how everything is coming together. I failed in different ways this past week but i still am happy with what I accomplished. I hope to be able to work on the sleeves and the lining next week.

Thanks for reading, I hope you enjoyed 🙂